Toolik Field Station

 My job for the next couple months is Kitchen Assistant at Toolik Field Station, a site for a variety of Arctic research projects (click here for the station website and TONS more info) on the northern slope of the Brooks Range, sandwiched between Gates of the Arctic National Park and the Arctic National Wildlife Refuge. (If you type Toolik Lake into Google Maps you'll be able to see where I'm located in relation to...everything else on the planet.)

I'll give you a whole bunch of glimpses into my time here in the coming weeks. But to start, you can see how things appeared to me as I was first settling in.

Standing at the edge of Toolik Lake looking back at camp:

And then looking back at the lake, still frozen from the long, cold winter:

Caribou crossing the tundra in the distance...

My cozy room in a dry, double-wide trailer. Though I have to go elsewhere for running water, I do have electricity. And even Wifi!

And the lovely view out  my window of the Brooks Range. 

Not too shabby a start!

Dalton Highway Northbound

I'm gonna be honest: at the end of two weeks of quarantine, I was sad it was over and could easily have done two more weeks. But okay, okay, I know: the thing I was in quarantine for to start with and then needed to leave to actually go do is very awesome, so just roll your eyes at my wish for more quarantine.

Regardless, as planned, on Tuesday morning my solitude was done and I got a ride to the Toolik Field Station garage at the University of Alaska at Fairbanks and we packed up this beast for the drive north:

Two others (a fellow contractor going to work on station maintenance and a research scientist conducting a study on Arctic ground squirrels) and I then hit the road out of Fairbanks toward the...

Lucky duck and spoiled traveler that I am, I have been on this road once before, southbound from Prudhoe Bay/Dead Horse to Fairbanks with my mom as tourists in 2010. But it was still a joy (the 9-hour drive from UA-Fairbanks to Toolik went incredibly quickly) to see it again going in the opposite direction, over the Yukon...

...through sweeping, snowy landscapes...

...stopping for pit-stops only in COVID-safe spots like outhouse toilets (though really, if there's going to be snow IN the bathroom, I'd much rather just pee al fresco!)...

...into the Arctic Circle...

...into even more striking landscapes...

...past the remote outpost of Coldfoot...

...and into the gorgeousness of the Brooks Range!

Once we went over Atigun Pass (only about 5,000 ft of elevation, but at this  latitude it makes for a very intense landscape!)

For the whole journey (of course, since it is the reason the Dalton Highway even exists), the Alaskan oil pipeline kept us company, sometimes ducking under the road and popping up again on the other side, but always there somewhere.

After Atigun Pass we were technically heading down "the slope"--the gradual drop from the pass all the way (eventually...like 6 hours later, and we weren't going that far) down to the Arctic Ocean.

 But we stopped a couple hours north of the pass when we pulled off the highway at Lake Toolik and arrived at Toolik Field Station, my home for the next 2+ months. More on that in the next post....

Creamer's Field

I got a tip from a Greenland friend who lives in Fairbanks that the place I'm staying is close to a particular field (on the property of Creamer's Dairy) that migratory birds typically stop in for rests on their epic voyages--and that birds northbound for the summer have just started arriving. So I went to check it out. It  is no joke.

I stayed for a good long time (6 feet away from any other living creature, of course) watching the birds, and also watching the birders watch the birds, which was equally lovely and interesting.

Love this too:

Looks like some deer (?) have been by to check out the migratory birds, as well.

 

And everything keeps melting and melting and melting....

I've taken  three COVID tests since arriving in Fairbanks (negative, negative, and negative) so I think it's safe to say I don't have COVID and the plan is on to hit the road to Toolik tomorrow. That road is the Dalton highway, which I last journeyed with my dear mom in 2010. If memory serves, it was quite  beautiful....

Time for an adventure: Alaska!

Well, hello, friends, family, and anyone else poking around here!

Long time, no see.

It has been so long since my last blog post that the interface of Blogger has changed and I'm a little disoriented. But let's give it a whirl. Because after the past year of trying to keep my feet grounded during COVID, I've gotten a contract to spend the first half of the Arctic summer season at Toolik research camp in northern Alaska. 

But before that can happen, a requisite quarantine in Fairbanks to make 100% sure I don't take COVID into camp. So I have been chilling for near two weeks now at Wedgewood Resort, on the north side of Fairbanks, in my super spacious, comfy own room.

That's just the living room. There's also an alley kitchen, a little dining area, a separate bedroom, and of  course a bathroom. I've been doing some work trainings and orientations online, but other than that I sleep  when I want, read, write, talk with friends...what more could a girl ask for?

Also, though I've largely been confined to the room since I got here last Monday, I am allowed to go out for as many walks as I want as long as I don't get within six feet of another person. And the weather  has been GLORIOUS. Sixty degrees and brilliantly sunny every single day. So I've been walking and walking  and walking in the beautiful sunshine.

When I first got here there were several feet of snow on the ground. And the benches.

But every day it's been melting and melting and melting.

Because of the snow (and the melting) it's been easier to adopt a daily walking routine around this adorable neighborhood near where I'm staying than through the woods behind the property. I've walked past these houses many dozens of times now and they make me really happy.

Sometimes I still put on my boots and visit the woods anyway. Though I've been in a really contained area since I arrived, there's lots of beauty nearby and I'm grateful to be here.

Isolation times

Hi everyone!

Right now I was supposed to be in Scandinavia for a big family trip to celebrate my mom's 70th birthday this year. We might try to go in August, or it might be next year, who knows. I'm not sure when I'll next be headed abroad and saying hello from here. Like for all of us, Coronavirus has really thrown a wrench in life. But I'm so grateful to be safe and healthy and with my family during these crazy times.

And I'm staying very busy with all kinds of projects, two of which I wanted to share.

First, I've posted some of the crafty things I make on an Etsy site called "LindseyCrafting." You can see everything here, and if you're on Etsy and willing to give my shop a "heart," that would be fantastic. There's paintings, knitting projects, quilting projects, earrings, and more.

Also, I have a piece of travel writing that was just published in the latest issue of Yellow Arrow Journal, which is available in pdf or printed copy here.

This fall, I'll also have pieces of writing published in the Shanghai Literary Review and The Finger Literary Journal, so look out for those as well if you'd like.

Hope you're well, and hope to see you here again before too long.