A bit of a jarring transition from the sunny 70 degrees of Madeira and—no joke—a full rainbow arching over the island as my departing plane took off to the chill and rain of northern Italy in December, lost luggage, and train strikes. But everything was softened and cozied by the friends I am here to see. First up, a lovely day with some researchers I met in Alaska this summer who live and work in this area. I especially loved our visit to the lakeside town of Orrido di Nesso.
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