I Saw the Sign

Spent the day in southeast Puerto Rico, and I'm not sure what it was, but I felt strongly all day like I was back in Peace Corps, or in a place that is like somewhere there would be Peace Corps. I'm not sure what I mean by that or what exactly gave that repeated, distinct impression. All I can give you is this collection of fragments. First: signage. This was on the door of of a bathroom at a nature reserve:

Then, on the trail in the reserve:

Wait, what does that *completely submerged in water and pointing to an open bay* sign say? Let's look a little closer:

I definitely would not have identified that as the walking trail without that sign.

So, there was that sort of thing. But it was million other things, too. Buildings made entirely of painted concrete. Getting lost trying to find a nature reserve (Bahía de Jobos) that the guidebook laments is the least visited in the country (perhaps because no one can find it?). A pack of stray dogs napping in the middle of the road. Stopping at a gas station five miles away to ask for directions to the reserve, which involves a great deal of miming and my HORRIBLE Spanish until an English-speaker steps up. That English speaker saying he lives right near the reserve and no problem, just follow his car and he'll show you where it is. Having him lead you to the EXACT, unmarked parking lot and painted concrete building where you turned around so as not to have to run over the dogs sleeping in the road earlier. Hikes on trails that, if they don't disappear into water, wander aimlessly into impenetrable patches of trees or dilapidated old sugar mills that have nothing more than a listless yellow rope lying on the ground to suggest: "Maybe, probably you shouldn't go in here, if you feel like it, because the whole building could collapse in on itself at any second, possibly." A small horse tied to a tree near one of the buildings, even though there is no one, absolutely no one around. More dogs, following you everywhere you go on the hiking trail. Large iguanas scuttling into the tall grasses as you approach. Papaya farms. Roads lined with sky-high coconut palms. Slamming on the brakes for iguanas in the road. Lots of iguana roadkill (some people don't bother to slam on the brakes). An oddly upscale, tidy, calm, relaxing tourist spot (in this case, thermal baths near Coamo) in what feels like the middle of nowhere, tucked into a beautiful landscape. Moments of surprising beauty scattered among the weirdness and dust and heat. A type of day that is strangely lovable.