Sucupira is Praia’s traditional African market, the way-less-fluorescent precursor to a Super-Walmart—though in my opinion, better in every way. Need groceries? New shoes? A tailor? A quick lunch? Household knick-knacks? Your hair done? A place to chill for the afternoon? Sucupira is there for you!
(Disclaimer: I swear, I did ask the women in the hair stall if it was okay if I took their picture, and they said yes. I feel like I need to say that since they don’t look very happy about it.)
Praia is at the south end of Santiago Island, and though I don’t expect that after this week I’ll be back here for more than a night or two in transit, I did get to take a daytrip north along Santiago’s mountainous spine to the gorgeous northern beach at Tarrafal for lunch and a swim, and then back south along the east coast. The highlight was probably learning to make Cabo Verdean couscous and fidjos (banana donut balls) for breakfast with Mama Luisa, the mother of the owner of the tour company. Sweetness and beauty!
Well hello there! Happy 2025, and welcome to this West African adventure!
The final locale for my travel fellowship is yet another tropical island nation, this one off the coast of Senegal: Cape Verde. I’m starting it off with a week in the capitol, Praia, working on a visa issue (more on that later), getting oriented, and seeing what there is to see. So far: warm and colorful and it’s thrilling to be here.
