Thursday, July 22, 2021

Farewell, Toolik

I appreciated all of Toolik's loveliness right up till the last minute....



...and then yesterday morning said lots of bittersweet goodbyes and started out on the drive down to Fairbanks (solo this time), 9+ hours of just total gorgeousness.



This has been an amazingly wonderful contract in so many respects and I truly hope to return to Toolik again another summer. The tundra really got under my skin.

In the meantime, other joys and connections are pulling me south. So I'm saying so long for now.

Check back here mid-September...COVID-willing, another adventure in a totally different part of the world will be happening then and as long as it does, I'll be back to share it with you...

Wednesday, July 21, 2021

My departure from Toolik draws nigh

I'm excited for all the good times ahead with family and friends in other places, but I'm so sad to leave here. It's been a real, real joy.

It's so easy to find beauty in the small things here. The fireweed with a bumblebee approaching, mid-flight. The tiny blossom that looks at first glance like it's growing from pure stone.




Tuesday, July 20, 2021

Canoeing on a beautiful, crisp, summer evening with friends

Some of the scientists here have to go out onto the lake to collect specimens and data, which is the official reason for the Toolik boat dock and a ramshackle collection of canoes, motorboats, and even a tiny sailboat. The unofficial reason is...well, you've seen pictures of this gorgeous lake. Why wouldn't we go out on it?!? So one night last week, a bunch of us did.







Monday, July 19, 2021

Sunset returns

Today is supposedly the day! The sun has not set since May 26 and I'm told it will finally set again tonight. I won't be awake to see that wee hours event, but I was up after midnight one evening last week and the low sun made for gorgeous, gorgeous skies....



Saturday, July 17, 2021

Friday, July 16, 2021

4th of July

Belatedly, have to mention that we did have a 4th of July celebration here a couple weekends ago. It was a bleak and rainy and mosquito-infested evening, but I was super impressed at how everyone in camp (about 75 people these days) rallied and showed up for the traditional skit parade/competition that happens here each 4th of July. There were costumes and a whole lot of silliness, followed by a bonfire that continued HOURS after I was soundly asleep in my dry, cozy bed.






Thursday, July 15, 2021

I lied

I said that my third visit to the aufeis was probably my last. But then, last Monday evening, there was space on a truck heading over there and I found myself climbing aboard. Totally worth it, as yet again it looked totally different than the previous time I'd been there!





Wednesday, July 14, 2021

The Continental Divide

It runs through the Brooks Range...and involves amazing scenery as it does in soooooo many places from here all the way down to Chile.



Marmot quest

A couple Sundays ago there were rainclouds to the north and rainclouds to the south, but a beautiful sunny sky over Toolik. A couple of the science techs and I loaded bikes into the back of a camp truck and drove some miles south on the Dalton to one of the access roads to the pipeline and biked along the pipeline trail a mile or so, up to a known marmot den in search of its inhabitant(s).


There was a gorgeous view across the tundra of camp, perched there on the edge of Toolik Lake:


And the marmot den was fairly obvious and remarkably stinky and fly/mosquito infested. 


The mosquitos have gotten officially very nasty, and my trusty mosquito net really came in handy for this quest. Which was successful!  Not a great picture, but a marmot is standing straight up at attention, staring at us, in  the center of this frame. See?


And as always, the tundra scored knock-out punches of beauty on ground level as well.



Saturday, July 10, 2021

Loon song

 "Toolik" is the native Alaskan word for yellow-billed loons, so I'm very glad I got to see a pair swimming on Lake Toolik. And being VERY vocal about their territory. I really hope this video plays with sound for you.




Friday, July 9, 2021

Sun on the tundra

 Didn't mind the rain. Don't mind the sun either. Rather like 'em both.



Thursday, July 8, 2021

Rain in the air

 The end of June was wayyyyyy more rainy than the first few weeks of it.

I didn't mind.



Wednesday, July 7, 2021

Atigun, again (a Solstice hike)

Particularly attentive readers may remember that a good bit ago I took a walk through part of the Atigun River valley and it was beeee-eautiful. On the summer solstice (June 20), I decided to get ambitious and (with two other friends from the staff here) went back for the full hike to Atigun waterfalls. I'd heard it was nice and was about a 5-mile roundtrip. Luckily, it was way better than just "nice," because if that was only a 5-mile roundtrip, let me just say that tundra walking IS NOT EASY. For those who have not had the pleasure: the tundra may look flat from a distance, but up close, it is littered with hard knobs of vegetation called tussocks that rise up to a foot out of the general spongy, bogginess of the ground around them. Like a grassy mogul field that's actively trying to twist your ankles and exhaust you. And then come  the mosquitoes. But all that said, this hike was totally worth it!

The day was cool and overcast, which ended up being perfect considering the effort of the walking.


The wildflowers were just stunning...




And the clouds gave great atmosphere to the mountain ridge.


I LOVE this lichen that looks like someone painted white roses on  this rock.


The macro scenery also got more and more and more beautiful as we walked...


And walked...


And walked....


Probably we would have gotten there faster if I hadn't kept dropping to the ground to photograph the way the tundra, at foot-level, is its own kind of forest. Just amazing.


Finally, eventually, we found the falls.


And they were lovely. The pictures don't do it justice. This crazy dramatic rock formation has water just pouring out of a hole it has carved in its downhill journey. I'm realizing I should have put in a picture with a person  for scale. This rock is TALL and IMPOSING (I promise).


When our gazes were sated, we turned back around to face the walk back to the truck. I'm not gonna lie: My heart sank a little as I was already pooped. But obviously we did make it back, since I'm here telling you about it. The tundra beauty pulled us through.



Monday, July 5, 2021

Sundog!

 Such a fun and beautiful phenomenon!



Sunday, July 4, 2021

Kitchen

Some friends have asked how the food is here, and that makes me realize I've neglected to talk much about my job in the kitchen. I can't take any credit for it, but the food here is REALLY good, and the kitchen is a joy to work in.

Just one example: pizza night!


My domain is more the dining area: keeping things tidy, restocking the salad and deli bars, beverages, and the "7-11"--the wall of snacks people can quickly grab to take out into the field with them. But it's been a fun and enjoyable time/job for me, in a really nice place with good people.





Saturday, July 3, 2021

Pride

 I am behind in posting pictures (and though the days of Arctic Alaska life are long, MY days here are running short in quantity) so am late posting about the bonfire we had last month in celebration of Pride month.

My coworker G, baker extraordinaire, whipped up this beauty of a cake:

And then everyone dressed up and got silly for the evening.



Even I put on a wig and all the sparkly clothing G provided me, and enjoyed the festivities for a couple  of hours before heading to bed and leaving the midnight sun reveling to the extroverts.

The night before the party, even the sky got in on the festivities....